Khari Print

Khari printing is a technique in which a paste is used which is pushed through a metal container with a specific design cut out from its base leaving that design on the fabric. Gold and Silver dust is sprinkled over the printed fabric creating a highlight or a single design in its own right.

It is a highly skilled and labour-intensive process with only a small motif produced by each impression. The process starts with the specially prepared roghan gum paste made of a cooked mixture of castor oil that has been processed through repeated boiling till it forms a thick, viscous, gooey mass. It is followed by the addition of other ingredients that include turpentine, further heated, thickened and strained till the paste achieves the acceptable printing consistency.The stamping tools used in Khari printing are also different from other forms of block printing. 

Sancha (Blocks)

An ingenuous system, it uses two different blocks. The outer metal case is made of brass. The design is perforated onto the surface of its base. The inner component of the case is the wooden mallet, fitting perfectly into the metal sleeve. The karigar forces the thick viscous roghan paste through the perforation to form the motif on the textile. This is only the first phase in the printing process.

Hatha (Mallet) and Sancha in action

 While the roghan paste has not yet set, metal powders or mica abrakh powders are dusted on the fabric. When dried any excess powder is removed and saved for further use, while the glittering textile is ready for use.A wide range of motifs can be created, the only constraint in Khari work being that the patterns be fashioned of smallish dots and dashes as long and heavy lines or filled motifs stiffen the surface reducing drapability. The finished product replicates the luxury of metal thread embroidery. Dry cleaning should be avoided in Khari printing.

 The stamping tools used in Khari printing are different from other forms of block printing. It uses two different blocks, close fitted to each other like a glove. The outer sancha metal case is made of brass. The inner component is a wooden mallet which perfectly fits into the metal sleeve.

Here's the process

1. Rogan gum paste is prepared from a mixture of castor oil that has been processed through repeated boiling till it forms a thick viscous gooey mass. 

2. This is followed by addition of other ingredients including turpentine. The printing consistency is achieved by heating, thickening and staining this mixture. 

3. The metal case is filled with the rogan paste and the wooden mallet pushes the paste to form a motif. This is initially tested on a paper to check consistency. 

4. The Rogan paste is printed over the fabric. 

5. While the paste hasn't set yet, metal powders are dusted on it. 

6. The excess dust is now removed and fabric is dried for two days after which it is ready to use. 

The Process

Saree done using Khari Printing Technique